amdry vs dricore

So R2.5-3.2.. 1/2 rigid foam + ply/osb. With the exception of epoxying rods, they all seem hit or miss. I suspect DriCore and AmTry, Barricade and Tyroc actually have the building science wrong. https://www.grkfasteners.com/products/concrete/caliburn-concrete, http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-insulate-a-concrete-floor/, Misleading Energy Reports Used to Sell Spray Foam. I only say that because the walls had been drylocked prior to purchase. But most important is the … Some basement floor coverings such as vinyl or ceramic tile can be installed straight on concrete. I have looked into these products pretty extensively. Dricore vs Barricade vs. Tyroc vs. other options? DRIcore talks about airflow/drying under their panels, but that's asking for condensation/mold under the panels when there is insulation involved. The cleanest 1x4 will save a lot of screw splits that make the anchoring less than optimal. AmDry says: "Once the (flooring) has been installed install the baseboard I was suggesting sealing with a paint like product. Consider leveling any dips in the concrete slab with leveling compound and laying out the locking edge vinyl floor planks directly to the slab AFTER you seal the whole floor. Ok so here is the question: why the different philosophies on whether or not to leave a gap for air flow around the perimeter? I would check with your local flooring people on the ins and outs of that. I can't say they are right, just pointing out that they are very specific on these points. Amdry Insulated OSB Subfloor panels are designed to offer a better,simpler insulation system; designed specifically for … It also took more coats than they wanted to admit, too. This site is full of people recommending the rigid foam, osb/ply, tapcon method. DRIcore floors typically come in panel shapes that are smaller than the plywood sheets available. Amdry is a do it yourself (DIY) all-in-one sub flooring system with a moisture barrier designed to be installed over existing concrete slabs. Concrete can also be covered with special subfloor panels, such as DRIcore tiles, to create a surface much like conventional plywood or OSB subflooring. The prospect of fastening 50 sheets of plywood over foam is quite daunting and I agree with Nick that Tapcons suck. Both plywood subfloors and roof sheathing should be gapped to allow for expansion, and both are heavily nailed (and in the case of subfloor glued). I'm not familiar with the split pins that Nick mentioned. They work by a capillary break to protect the subfloor. I’ve been reading about my options for subfloors, and have read many great threads and articles on this site. User, I sadly cannot recall the brand of sealant the floor store sold me. . My now rather outdated mindset about UGL was based on its formerly needing a cleaned open concrete surface to bond too. Full information about Amdry 2.09 in. Bryce, Starting with insulating. i find tapcons almost unusable, but have had good luck with the GRK screws. Plywood subfloor moisture damage & humid summers (Japan)- solutions? DRICORE® Subfloor is the first and most important step towards creating a new living … First, the size of the panels and the manner in which they fit together is superior. The risk of this type of expansion vary, depending on the dampness of the slab. We’d start by putting down one-inch, rigid foam … No matter how thoroughly I tried to clear the dust out of the holes, they would bind up, not go in all the way, strip, break, etc. DRICORE ® Subfloor is designed with a high density plastic … It seems UGL has been busy in the ensuing years, so a trip to their site to look at all the new improved products might be worth the trip. Epoxy would certainly be good at sealing, but if you have nearly 1600 sq ft to do, it will be very costly and smelly. The Dricore/Amdry approach just seems fundamentally flawed. It is pricey like plywood, but I could not believe how well it stands up to wet and abusive weather. Dricore will add about r5 insulation. You might want to consider using the Advantech-Gold Edge type or other brand of wet resistant subflooring. As of yet the main basement part still has a concrete floor. I'm doing some dricore but lucky in that I have one edge that must be sealed with acoustical caulk, but another that opens to an air space. I will wager that your humidity is no worse than Chicago or Boston where I lived in the past. I guess from all of the posts the one thing in common is that the prefabricated amdry panels and equivalents aren't really up to snuff. Sheeting on sleepers can feel a bit "squirmy" under foot if seams are not locked or sitting on the sleepers. If you cover a basement slab with a vapor-impermeable layer, and you leave only a 1/2-inch wide crack at the perimeter of the room and you cover the crack with baseboard, you can't expect any significant upward drying to happen. Alas, I learned most things the hard way, or with help from others who went before me. I was under the impression that any chemical sealant used to retard moisture/ vapor penetration would only be able to stand up for so long before eventually failing and letting in moisture which would begin the mildew/ mold cycle on whatever organic material was within reach. Cuts cleaner, hangs together better, and tapes way better. If there might ever be water under the floor, then I'd want it to freely flow to a sump/drain without wetting the OSB/plywood. Unfortunately, due to several issues (ceiling height, door height – its a walkout, bottom step etc..) I am going as thin as possible. It doesn't need to dry out. I ended up switching to split pins with a flat countersunk head. Still I would suggest considering the floating floor method and avoiding the fuss of drilling into the concrete. The seams expose the OSB to the exact conditions that we all know we need to protect organic matter from in a basement. The ceiling is 7 feet, 4 inches high, which is typical … I'd love to see a real building science person analyze how the products actually perform. I need to pour SLC to level some small areas and mapei suggesting their epoxy to seal existing, then the SLC. Worked on both accounts and far as I know the floor is still stuck down nearly 20 years out. Concrete has thermal expansion issues, wood has moisture expansion. The … Do you feel that AMdry panels can provide adequate protection from adsorption on their own or would I be taking to much of a risk by foregoing the tried and true rigid foam route. Brands like DRIcore or Amdry include this. This sounds good and it is the option I am leaning towards. Both DriCore and AmDry require the floor to be cleaned, AmDry says this is because trapped dirt can mold. Inviting soil moisture into your home is not a good idea.

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